Low waste goat hay feeder9/23/2023 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Interior of hay feeder in use this is the first feeder we made, and I think the fancy railings are pretty spiffy. I left this off to save weight for ease of lifting. This lid should have been a little wider on the right side, and could use a strip crosswise in the middle to support the lid so it doesn't sag. Leave a decent overhang at the rear of the lid to make the counterweights effective. Step 5: hinges and 2 x 4's to which plywood lid is fastenedįinished hay feeder in use, showing "counterweights" of scrap 2 x 6 on lid.you would not think it makes much of a difference, but it does. Step 4: attach the calf panel outer pieces-this is the back Step 4: attach the calf panel outer pieces using a frame of furring strips-this is the front The final piece fits between the upright 2 x 6's. NOTE: the calf panel shown is cut TOO WIDE by one grid space. Screw railings to bottom of box you can use a 1 x 6 under the railings for a more solid base in which to fasten them our first design (shown at the bottom) has this feature. If you want one built and can get there, see the link to Wyl, above.īox with bottom of plywood and both front and rear support for interior railings in placeĭetail of fastening the rear railing drill, then use long wood screwsĭetail of fastening the front railing sits over the 2 x 4 for extra support Thanks go to Michael Covey, whose various body parts are shown in some of the photos-he is the handy guy without which these feeders would probably not exist at all!Īnd no, we don't build these to sell. A lot of your dimensions will be dictated by the exact size of the deck railings you are able to purchase, but one rule of thumb is that the distance from the outside of the calf panels to the center of the feeder should not be greater than about 19", so the last bits in the center can be reached. Below I show step by step photos of the assembly of one of our feeders, and I will try to add some plans with measurements later. I've also added rudimentary counter weights to the lid to make it easier to lift. In the end I've modified the design of the hay feeder to utilize these attractive, durable (so far) pre-assembled parts as the primary hay racks inside the feeder, and added calf panel pieces on the exterior to prevent unwanted occupants. ![]() Suddenly before my eyes I saw the interior of a new hay feeder, with the slatted frame to hold the hay already pre-assembled. One day I was walking through my local Home Depot when I spotted some pre-assembled PVC railings intended for use in building outdoor decks. I tried adding wooden cross pieces to the outside, with the result that all of my goats developed bare patches at the base of their necks where they rubbed on the horizontal slats. Since the whole purpose of the feeder is to keep the uneaten hay clean so that it will all be eaten.well, you see the problem. But there was one really vexing problem with the design I had been using: the vertical slats on the outside permit the smaller members of the herd to climb in and settle down for a nice long chow with no need to get up for bathroom breaks. With their large number of pieces, these hay feeders are a bit laborious to put together, but are far far superior to putting hay in racks or on the ground. A similar design, but smaller and one sided, has been produced for sale by Wyl Smith in Maine for local pickup. We added to this a 2nd layer of slats set on a slant on both long open sides, to help prevent animals pulling their heads back out while eating and dropping hay on the ground. The basic design I used was to start with a v-feeder like that shown in plans published by the Saskatchewan Agriculture Family Farm Improvement Branch. I had several low waste hay feeders that I had built along the general lines of others I had seen in use and on the internet. ![]()
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